A tale of two ciders

I am a big fan of ciders.   Now, I am not talking about the type of ciders that you might have drank growing up, either in the form of a non-alcoholic sparkling cider for the kids, or perhaps early in your drinking career you might have sampled the super sweet industrial versions that apparently pass for cider in most of the United States.

Neither of these ciders are anything like that.  At all.  In fact, one, the 2008 Isastegi from the Basque region of Spain is one of the most unique beverages I have ever had.  Both of these ciders are made in small amounts, the French one being organic from a family that primarily makes Calvados, the Basque from a very small family company that makes primarily cider.

Cider is traditional in many areas of Europe, but the examples from England, Spain and France are among the best known.  The English examples are usually on the sweeter side, with the large amounts often mass produced, force carbonated examples making their way across the pond, to our unfortunate lips.  I have never had a great example of UK cider.  Apparently, the more serious examples usually stay within the country.

The French examples I have tried, both in the US and in France are mostly on the dry side, and tend to be more of a "farm" type product.  In France, Normandy and Brittany are areas that are well known for their production of cider, with no apparent marked difference between the two.  On a personal note, I can tell you at least in Brittany, cider is everywhere and is traditionally served in a clay bowl accompanied with the typical Brittany dish of galette or buckwheat crepes served "normale" with cured ham, Gruyere cheese and a fried egg.  It goes incredibly well with this dish, and I highly recommend it.

The Spanish examples that I have had in the past were....well....I actually have never had a Spanish cider prior to this example, but historically there were two main regions that produced ciders, and had a significant cider culture to accompany it, Austurias and the Basque Region.  The cider from the Austurias comprises more than 80% of the Spanish production, and is traditionally served in sidreríes in small quantities, poured into a small glass from a large height in order to create bubbles that last for a short time.

The Basque region has a distict and very important cider culture, also with it's own places to drink, the sagardotegi, which is also usually a communal restaurant.  The Basque style is served poured directly from the large barrels into a short wide glass, typically also from a great height (pictured on label).  The cider is much more acidic, and the apple varieties are quite different.

The French example, the 2007 Etienne Dupont Cidre Brut de Normandie was like drinking freshly picked apples that had some attitude.  It was quite sparkling, but not in an intrusive way.  The taste was really similar to true, unfiltered and unpasteurized apple juice that was allowed to ferment, totally dry but still very fruity.  It is unfiltered, unsulfured and really a pure expression of the apples that this family cidrerie pressed and fermented into cider.  It would go extremely well with many kinds of cheese, especially ones from Normandy, and even Indian cuisine.

The Basque version, the 2008 Isastegi Sagardo naturala is truly a unique drink.  I would not recommend this for people that do not like acidity in their drinks.  I would compare this to a Gueuze lambic beer made with apples.  It is extremely dry, extremely acidic, and extremely unusual.  There is a very small amount of carbonation left in this drink, making the mouthfeel akin to a white wine.  The nose is definitely apple, but after the first sip, you will see why this is meant for the traditional fried cod cakes or heavy cheese meal, with a tart grassy apple taste.

I highly recommend both of them for very different reasons.  Both are unique and support a traditional source of agriculture.

You can find the French cider at Whole Foods and the Basque cider at K and L wines.