Many Tastes of Pakistan

Who would have thought that I would one day find myself sitting in a rooftop restaurant in the Red Light District of Lahore, Pakistan, eating one of the most incredible meals of my life. I certainly never imagined such an adventure to find me. In fact, I was quite nervous about the trip leading up. Despite growing up in a third world country, hungry husband warned me about all the inconceivable things I would see, hear, eat and experience. "It's like nothing you've ever imagined," was his tag line. Of course, every person that I uttered the word "Pakistan" to shuddered in disbelief. "Why are you going there?" "Isn't it dangerous?" I would never go there for a vacation." "Didn't Daniel Pearl get KILLED there?" This was just the tip of the iceberg. Granted, Pakistan doesn't evoke the most positive images when it comes to vacations. I most certainly did not anticipate a country with such potential and beauty. You see, in the world of marketing and PR, India seems to be winning. Everyone wants to go to India. Everyone wants to visit an Ashram (thanks Eat, Pray, Love). Everyone wants to "find themselves" and take a picture in front of the Taj Mahal. There is no disrespect here for the world's third largest economy. It's just that Pakistan is perceived as the poor, ugly duckling of the family. Sure, there is incredible disparity between the rich and the poor. Sure, there is poverty and dingy neighbourhoods. And of course, there are security and safety issues. But, the potential of the country is immense. Of course, that potential can be realized if the right decisions and investments are made and some stability is brought to the major cities. That's when, the country is bound to grow out of its ugly duckling image and become the beauty that it is.

Before my arrival in Pakistan, I decided to treat this as a culinary expedition. So, I will tell you specifically about the food. That should come of no surprise, you're reading a blog about food. But, when I say food, I mean the experiences that surround the food. Pakistan isn't just a run-in and grab a bite culture. It is a cook-for-days, gather the family and eat-for-hours culture. I left Toronto disliking ALL Pakistani desserts and came back with a deep love for Kir. I left Toronto thinking Lahore Tikka House (no disrespect) served up delicious and authentic meals and came back realizing that South Asian cooking shouldn't make you feel like you're about to have a coronary. It should have depth but still be light. Spicy but not hot. I left Toronto thinking that while in Pakistan, I'd be stuck eating Pakistani food all day, every day but came back with a deeper appreciation for globalization, having tasted the most delicious Thai, Italian and Mediterranean dishes and some of the familiar like KFC, Nando's Chicken and Cinnabon. 

One of the most memorable meals we had was at a modest restaurant called Salt & Pepper, an all-night take away place located on Mall Road, near the Lahore High Court. The place was packed with Lahore's best legal minds (so I assumed). The area was bustling to say the least. Rickshaw's, donkey carts, food carts, cars, motorbikes, and of course, people on foot, covered every square inch. The front of the restaurant had an open-air BBQ attended to by a very eager man flipping kebabs, welcoming us in. We sat in the family section of the restaurant where obviously families and single women get a table.    Once seated, we had maybe three, maybe four wait staff ready to help. Unlike our culinary adventures in France, where service is beyond godawful (and they are proud of it), Pakistan is beyond courteous. Yes, the service industry does survive on tips but I think it's just culturally inherent. 


Fresh, made-to-order meals in under 20 minutes - that should be Salt & Pepper's slogan. Most restaurants fail when it comes to the bread but not this joint. Hot out of the oven roghni naans, with a spray of butter and sprinkling of salt to compliment the saucy dishes like mutton nihari, and beef kebabs. 




Mutton is the meat of an adult sheep approx at age 3 (and lamb is the meat of a sheep in its first year). Mutton has a stronger flavour than lamb and more fat. North Americans are not accustomed to Mutton which is why lamb is more readily available. It is definitely a taste you need to acquire but no word of a lie, the mutton nihari aka nihari gosht was out of this world. You cannot eat a heaping plate of this. I think just a sampling is enough to blow your mind - esp. with the must-do bread + sauce business. 




The chicken dish and the beef kebabs were full of flavour. Good quality meat, with the right amount of spices and an open air BBQ equaled mouthwatering.  The pictures don't lie. The dishes were as delicious as they look. 




Pakistani dishes look so easy to make. Oh, just throw some meat, spices, stock, into a pot, cover and boil. You feel like you can take on the "stew" category but when you start to do research or taste an authentic meal, you quickly realize just how complex and sophisticated the dishes really are. Not to mention, every family has its own version of a dish. What I tasted in one house was completely different in another. It's all about the family recipes and the elders teaching the next generation. So, the challenge of eating so well while on an adventure is, coming home and trying to nail down that exact same taste that the palate still remembers. Unfortunately for me, it will take years before I feel confidant enough to say I've perfected a dish as complicated as mutton nihari. Of course, I never back down from a challenge so look out for future posts on South Asian recipes and my trials.


I can tell you that both hungry husband and I left Pakistan with wonderful memories of warm, generous people, who showed us a country with so much promise and with so many passionate people working hard to make it better.


So next time you want to visit India, book a ticket to Lahore or Islamabad. It's an experience you won't soon forget.


Enjoy!
Foodie Wife