Preserved Lemons

Michael and his couscoussier

I consider myself to be a fairly intelligent person but my brain does, on occasion, fail me.  A former co-worker used to call it a brain fart and my gray matter sure let out a giant whoosh of duh this week.

It all started with dinner at the home of our friend, Michael Helm.  Michael designs stunning houses and is also the architect of some of the finest meals we’ve had the pleasure to enjoy over the years.  On this particular occasion, Michael laid on a superb Moroccan-inspired spread featuring a hearty chicken stew with olives and preserved lemons.  There was also a richly perfumed chickpea stew with couscous prepared in a battered aluminum couscoussier that’s become my current culinary crush.  I’m in love with that pot.

I went home and thought okay, I may not have Michael’s couscous pot but I can certainly channel my inner Paula Wolfert and make a batch of preserved lemons.  It won’t be long before I’m throwing a little preserved lemon in everything.  I have three of Ms. Wolfert’s cookbooks but could only find the quick 7-day version and I was looking for the full month-long cure.  I finally found that version at Epicurious and you can get the recipe here.

It all started well enough.  I layered the cut lemons and salt in the jar without incident.  Covered it all with a little extra lemon juice to make sure everything was well-covered.  I even remembered to mark the date I put them up so I wouldn’t forget when they were ready, because I often forget things like dates.

After a few days, I noticed that as the lemons exuded more of their juice, air pockets were created and the lemons started to float upward, no longer completely submerged.  Mostly submerged, but not completely.  I queried Ms. Wolfert on Facebook (gotta love FB) and she said to turn them occasionally and add a bit more lemon juice if necessary.  I opened the jars, added more juice, closed them again and then turned them over a few times.  Better, but still a bit proud.  Then I came into the kitchen a few mornings ago.

Bones had turned the lemons.  And then left them upside down.  Hmmm.  My brain took in this information and then it clicked. Turn them over!  And leave them that way for a time.  And then do it again.

So now I’m turning my lemons daily, ensuring they all get a soak in that good lemon juice/salt bath.  I’ve got another two weeks or so to go and then the fun begins.  The first thing on the menu will be Michael’s chicken stew.  Now to find a couscous pot.  The ones I’ve seen online are all either ceramic, copper (lovely but way out of my budget) or shiny stainless steel.  If anyone knows a source for a plain and simple metal couscoussier I’d love to hear from you.