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Splurge: Sesame Noodle at Lantern


By Splurge or Regurge (Visit website)



I'm really terrible at being adventurous when it comes to menus. Once I find a dish I like, I hold onto it like grim death (in the words of a very wise and horse-faced comedian). At Thai restaurants, I always get something noodley because a.) I absolutely can't resist carbs, and b.) as much as I try, I really don't enjoy the flavor of curry. Pad See Ew and Pad Woon Sen both combine eggs and green Asian vegetables (usually Chinese broccoli or bok choy) atop broad, chewy noodles or skinny, transparent noodles, respectively. I always order one or the other, depending on the menu's options.

I think I've found my new favorite Thai noodle dish. At a recent dinner party at Lantern in Gramercy, I abandoned my aforementioned menu habits and went for the Sesame Noodle (how exotic!) with beef. After repeatedly munching on Pad See Ew (which the Sesame Noodle more closely resembled), it's pretty difficult to discern drastic inconsistencies among the city's various renditions of the dish. That said, Lantern's was a clear standout.

The flat, chewy noodles (similar to Chinese chow fun) were the thinnest, most delicate ribbons I have ever encountered. When greeted by my fork, the edges would lightly flake and become integrated with the surrounding egg and beef chunks. The menu described the dish as having a "light sesame flavor", which it most certainly possessed. The beef should have been softer, and I think the overall flavor could have been slightly more daring -- some heat and refreshing ginger would have done the trick. Also, I was pretty surprised that there were no fresh sesame seeds garnishing the web of noodles.

I can't wait to go back and sample the Green Tea Noodles, which if I remember correctly are spinach-flavored strands topped with veggies and beef. The dish was a hot commodity at the party -- I think 4 out of 10 people ordered it. I will not, however, be ordering any alcky. I went on a curse-spewing rampage when I discovered that cocktails were $10-11 a pop.



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