What does eating local mean when you are dining out?

They've recently published the results of a  survey in which they asked local farms what restaurants are buying from them and how often.  The intent of the survey is to establish which restaurants are really buying locally and which ones are just saying it to attract customers.  I applaud the spirit of this survey and was thrilled to see some unsung heroes like East Side Pies on the list.



The problem is the results are incomplete.  First, the survey was sent to 80 farms, but not returned by all.  It's unclear how many farms participated, and if a restaurant buys solely from one of the non-participating farms, then they are not on the list.  Eastside Cafe, a locally sourcing icon, ranks only 16th because they grow and raise most of their own produce and eggs, and they were not sent a survey.   The survey also doesn't account for the untold number of chefs who shop at the markets or farm stands and don't identify themselves to the farmers.  I've heard of at least three such chefs just this week.

Second, because of the 150 mile radius definition, ranches like Thunderheart Bison (220 miles) and Loncito's Lamb (170 miles) are not included in the survey even though they provide a great deal of protein to Austin restaurants.  San Miguel Seafood probably wasn't on the list either as the coast is 190 miles and, again, their fresh Gulf seafood can be found on numerous menus around town.

Rabbit ravioli from Parkside


Gulf ceviche from El Arbol


Corn ravioli from Foreign & Domestic

Third, the survey ignores distributors, also called middle men.  I understand from the stories I've been told that not all of the farmers are happy with the distributors.  I do understand their concerns, but I also think it's a bit of sour grapes.  Yes, there are probably distributors who define local as more than 150 miles.  And, yes, there are probably distributors, just as there are restaurants, who are green washing (saying something is local when it really isn't.)  

If we want the local food system to grow, however, we need distributors.  There are a lot of small farms in Central Texas and we need someone to consolidate pick-up and delivery from these farms to the restaurants.  Rather than cutting the distributors out, we could be working with them to make sure we are all supporting similar goals. 

The truth is, there is no definitive answer to what is local.  I could ask ten people in the "sustainable food" community and I'd probably get ten different answers.  It's up to you to define your local - I can't do that for you and neither can anyone else. 

Just remember:  the restaurants are more motivated to work with local farms when you ask where your food comes from.  So, get out there, start asking questions and ordering local - however you decide to define it.