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White Tuna Explained (Escolar vs. Albacore)


By Medellitin (Visit website)



I am not the first person on the Internet to tell you that White Tuna is a confusing order at the sushi bar.  While there are a host of fish that can be mislabeled as White Tuna, the two most common ones are the Albacore Tuna and our dreaded and delicious friend, the Escolar.

What Is White Tuna?I worked really hard to source both fish in a raw form so that I could bring you pictures.  And by 'worked really hard', I really mean: I would keep going to the same fishmonger and ask them if they had Escolar and Albacore.  Escolar isn't very difficult to find but Albacore can be problematic.  Finally, I found some at the Lobster Place in Chelsea Market. So, let's take a quick look:


White "Tuna" vs. "White" Tuna
Now I'm no chromatist, but I am pretty sure I know what the color white looks like.  Although,  technically white isn't actually a color, but the absence of color.  Or wait, is it the presence of all color?  Shitballs, is it the reflection of all the colors of the visible light spectrum to the eye.  Of course, neither of these fish are pure white, but wait... what the fuck am I talking about?   

Not so confusing anymore.
That's right, Albacore tuna isn't white.  While it can be more pale than the one I purchased, it will have a pinkish hue.  Part of me wonders if the Japanese word for white also means pale.  If Inuits have a bazillion words for snow, why wouldn't another culture have one word for 17 forms of white.  Additionally, Escolar is also opaque and shimmery.  Albacore will be more translucent.

Ultimately, we are left with two likely outcomes:  a fish that is a tuna but not white or a white fish that is not a tuna.  

This leads me to my white tuna apocalypse:  White Tuna and Super White Tuna on the same menu.  I have not been able to identify Super White Tuna as anything other than Escolar, but it should be noted that amongst the things I am not, marine biologist ranks up there with chromatist.  

Gratuitous Tuna PornIf there were a gun to my head, and I had to choose, I'd go for the Super White Tuna.  Its fat content make each bite sublime, while albacore's pleasure is more subtle and closer to the tuna that bombards us at every sushi joint.  The other challenge is that just because the Super White Tuna is Escolar, it doesn't mean that the White Tuna is Albacore.  There are plenty of fish in the sea that look like either of these two fish.  Your best bet is to ask a lot of questions.  If you get something that looks too white, has a buttery mouthfeel and a full, fatty flavor and they are telling you its absolutely a tuna, you are can safely assume that you have no idea what you are eating.

If you follow suit, take it easy and remember:
Assume there is between .5 oz/1 oz of fish on any piece of sushi/sashimi Stay under 6 ounces.  Maybe not so much with the white pants.  
If you have any experience here or other tips for readers, comment below!



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