Canelés: A sweet treasure from Bordeaux. Its recipe and tips to make them perfect.
In the heart of the Bordeaux wine region, there is a sweet treat that has endeared itself to many, not only in France, but throughout the world: canelés. This little treat, with its characteristic fluted shape, is famous for its crisp, caramelized outer crust and soft, slightly moist interior. Although its origins are shrouded in legend, what is indisputable is that the canelé is one of the most precious jewels of French pastry making.
Making a good canelé requires patience, precision and a deep understanding of techniques. The secrets behind its success lie not only in the recipe, but in the little tricks and details that make the difference. Below, I will share some of these secrets to achieve perfect canelés.
1. Use quality ingredients
In pastry making, the quality of the ingredients makes the difference between an ordinary dessert and an exceptional one. Canelés are no exception. Make sure to use good butter, fresh eggs, vanilla pods instead of essence or extract, etc. In addition, it is essential to respect the exact proportions of the recipe; pastry making is a capricious science in which any inaccuracy can alter the final result.
2. Let the dough rest
The resting of the dough is key in the preparation of the cannelloni. Once prepared, it is covered with cling film (i.e., directly touching the surface of the dough) and refrigerated for 24 hours. This rest allows the flour to absorb liquids and the ingredients to integrate, achieving a smoother and more balanced texture.
The "skin-on" method of filming prevents a hard crust from forming on the surface of the dough, which could cause lumps and alter the final consistency. Some pastry chefs recommend letting the dough rest in a stainless steel, glass or porcelain container as it helps to maintain a constant temperature.
The next day, it is crucial to give the dough a "beat" with the mixer, i.e. mix it at low speed for a few seconds to eliminate any air bubbles that may have formed and ensure that the dough is completely homogeneous, which will allow a more uniform baking.
3. Grease the molds adequately
The molds of cannelés are essential to achieve their characteristic shape and texture. Traditionally, copper molds are used, which provide ideal heat distribution. However, if these are not available, silicone molds also work well, although the results may vary slightly in terms of the intensity of the crust.
One trick that never fails is to use clarified butter to grease the molds. Clarified butter, having no milk solids, does not burn during the baking process, ensuring more even baking and a crisp, golden crust. After greasing, I recommend coating the pan with vanilla sugar. This sugar will provide a subtle layer of vanilla flavor that, when caramelized during baking, will become an extra touch of sweetness.
4. Filling the molds accurately
The amount of dough to be placed in each mold is key to the success of the cannelloni. It is recommended to use 2 oz/55 grams of dough for a classic mold. This weight ensures that the cannelé bakes perfectly on the inside, while maintaining the ideal shape on the outside. It is not recommended to overfill the mold, as the cannelé could overflow and lose its characteristic shape. The same amount of batter in all the cannelloni will prevent some from being overcooked and others undercooked.
Extra tip: Make sure the batter is well distributed in the mold, without air bubbles. You can tap the mold lightly against the work surface so that the dough settles evenly.
5. During baking: thermal shock
Baking canelés is a real science, especially considering that each oven is different and it is necessary to know our oven in particular to master this step and get a perfect canelé. A formula that usually works is to start with a very high initial temperature of 530°F/280ºC and bake for 7 minutes. This step ensures that the crust caramelizes quickly. Then, open the oven door for about 3 seconds, to reduce a little the internal temperature of the oven and, after this first thermal shock, we will set the temperature of our oven to 350°F/180ºC to continue baking with ventilated heat for 45 minutes.
6. Hot demolding
To unmold our cannelés perfectly, they should be removed while the mold is still hot. This will prevent the dough from sticking to the mold walls. Use a glove or kitchen towel to avoid burning yourself with the mold during this operation.
If the cannelé does not unmold easily, you can try rolling it slightly on a flat surface to loosen it. If you are using traditional copper molds, you can also apply a gentle tap on the base of the mold to help the cannelé slide out.
The Master's Touch and recipe
French pastry is an art defined by precision, respect for ingredients and dedication. Canelés are the perfect example of how small details can transform a simple dessert into a sublime delight. By following these steps with patience, attention and the tricks I share here, you can create canelés worthy of the best Bordeaux pastry chefs.
Here you can watch the step by step recipe with a video:
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