How to desalinate cod. Patience, cold water and know-how. This is how a chef would do it

1. Choosing the right container

Choose a large container, preferably made of glass or ceramic material, where the cod will be well covered. It should have enough space to allow the water to be changed without crowding the pieces.

2. Proportion of water

The amount of water should be at least twice the weight of the cod. Some cooks, as suggested by Simone Ortega in her now classic 1080 recipes, recommend even tripling the volume to facilitate a more uniform desalting.

3. Placement of parts

The pieces should be introduced skin side up. This orientation helps the salt, which tends to concentrate on the skin, to be released more efficiently and not accumulate at the bottom of the container.

4. Time and water changes

Desalting time depends on the size and thickness of the cod:

• For thick loins: between 48 and 72 hours.
• For medium pieces: about 36 hours.
• For crumbs or crumbled cod: 8 to 12 hours will be enough.

During this time, the water should be changed at least twice a day, increasing the frequency during the first hours.

5. Controlled temperature

Desalting should always be done cold, ideally between 39°F/4°C and 42°F/6 °C. Keeping the container in the refrigerator avoids fermentation and allows a more gradual desalting. In warm environments, leaving the cod at room temperature may alter its flavor and texture.

6. Check the salt content

The only sure way to know if the cod is ready is to taste it. Cut a small slice from the center of the piece, cook it lightly (it can be boiled, steamed or grilled) and check its doneness. It should be tasty, but not salty.

Practical (and classic) tips

• Do not reuse the water between changes. The released salt will redissolve and ruin the process.
• Avoid draining it on absorbent paper that may alter its surface. Let it drain on a rack or colander.
• If you are going to freeze it after desalting, be sure to dry it well and wrap it properly. Desalted cod can be kept cold for three days and frozen for several months.
• Do not rely on the external appearance: some pieces look desalted on the outside but are still salty on the inside. That is why it is essential to respect the times.

An ancient gesture that defines a kitchen

Desalting cod is not simply hydrating it. It is a gesture that defines Spanish cuisine, a practice that turns a preserved product into a living ingredient, ready to be integrated into a recipe steeped in history. Few traditional recipes, from potaje de vigilia to bacalao al pil-pil, ajoarriero or buñuelos de bacalao, begin without this prior, meticulous and patient step. At a time when everything is accelerated, there is something deeply respectful and almost poetic in waiting 48 hours to cook a fish. Because as in so many things in traditional cuisine, what is important is not only the result, but also the journey.