HOT: Easy Tiger, 96 Smith St, Collingwood

There was no doubt that I?d be getting to know the new kid on the block, modern Thai restaurant Easy Tiger.

I live right around the corner from it. And I really mean around the corner ? the lovely wood decking in the back outdoor area reverberates with people?s laughter every night just as I?m heading to sleep. I feel like I?m the boring dork who never gets invited to the party!

Determined to join the cool kids, I made dinner plans with RM and his uncle at the small restaurant one weekday evening. It was 7pm and already a third full, with curious onlookers constantly peeking through the large window and a steady stream of people entering during our meal and as we were leaving.

The interior décor is notable ? the flooring is recycled vinyl (very easy to clean up liquid spills apparently) and is used as part of a consistent theme of table runners, coasters and mats. The false walls means that cutlery and other objects are hidden away inside inset cupboards of blonde wood running the length of the dining room. The downlit glass shelves of colourful glass tumblers and wine glasses are not only useful but add colour and texture to the walls. Finally, the big fish mural was completed by Melbourne artist Tai Snaith ? who gave birth eight days later but will be back to complete more paintings when she?s working again!

The menu is divided into small eats and larger dishes. To start, the ma hor – crunchy meatballs of minced pork, chicken and prawn cooked in palm sugar and resting on slices of juicy fresh pineapple ($4) which RM and his uncle declared to be best dish of the night for its balance in flavours, colours and textures.

For mains, we shared  a red curry of tender braised beef shin, winter melon and snake beans ($28), salted salmon poached in coconut milk with raw vegetables ($30) and on our waitress? recommendation, the duck and watermelon salad with green chilli, mint and peanuts ($25) rather than the penang curry of pumpkin, baby corn and thai basil, as she said the flavours of the beef and pumpkin curries didn?t actually mix that well.

Out of the main dishes, opinion was divided. Both RM and I liked the hearty beef curry but would have preferred more spice (but that’s our personal choice). I really liked the salted salmon but RM?s uncle found it undercooked and a bit slimy in texture ? he said he would have preferred it with firmer fish. The duck in the salad was slightly overcooked though I really enjoyed the refreshing hit of watermelon juice with the meat.

On the other hand, the desserts were unusual and imaginative and really worth getting excited about. We shared glutinous pandanus leaf dumplings filled with chocolate alternating with melon balls, resting in a pool of warm sago coconut soup ($14). While I didn?t particularly enjoy the wishy-washy lukewarm milkiness of the sago (I would have preferred it cold as the dumplings and melon were both cold, though RM’s uncle disagreed with me), I did love the vibrant colours of the green and orange and the unexpectedly Western filling of oozing dark chocolate.

The winning dessert and the dish of the night for me was the steamed duck egg custard with rice ice cream and poached dragonfruit. ($14). The custard was unexpectedly savoury at first taste,  but gradually became sweeter once your tastebuds adjusted. The texture was perfectly silken and a delightful contrast to the mild crunchiness of the tiny pips in the dragonfruit?s flesh. I could have eaten more of the rich and creamy ice cream, which was accompanied by a little black sesame paste for contrast and taste.

I think Easy Tiger and I will become good friends ? it?s a casual, friendly restaurant and a nice little addition to the hood. I thought there was some variation in the quality of the food but not enough to put me off returning. If you go, just make sure you leave enough room for dessert ? that?s where the fireworks really happen in the kitchen. Oh, and please keep the noise down out the back :–)