As French as Cherry Soup (Soupe de Cerises à la Menthe)

Yes, we are still doing mint.

Because that amazing combination of flavors we had yesterday from Just Call Me Marta sparked something in my ancestral memory. Something from very long ago. Back when I was a snooty Francophile. Watch what you are thinking I said WAS!

There was a time when I sought out only the Frenchiest of taste sensations. Anything that would transport me back to my imaginary childhood in the south of France. Those lazy golden (and entirely made up) days when I sat under the chestnut tree... la boîte in hand with mes amis!

Those imaginary afternoons were always centered on food. These were the glittering days of spring when ma mère would be dancing about her wood burning stove concocting some petit amuse bouche for me to enjoy.  Something light and seasonal.

Inevitably during these pretend days of May we would have an overabundance of cherries freshly picked by Gaston (another character who only existed inside my head).

Ahhh, youth.

<!--break-->

In reality I did go through a snooty Francophile phase. Only I lived in Santa Barbara and I was in college. I think I still have my beret. Anyway, it was during that time that I first had Soupe de Cerises à la Menthe. Fresh Cherry Soup with Cool Mint, and I had it as a recomendation from Julia Child herself. She lived in Santa Barbara then too. And by recommendation, I mean I overheard her talking to someone else about it as I skulked near her table in a restaurant. I just had the feeling she wanted to meet me. But fate stepped in and she walked out the door with out introducing herself...

It may seem an odd combination. But you know the phrase, “as American as apple pie”? Well it was stolen and adapted from the French phrase, “as French as cherry soup”!

To this day this soup reminds me of sunny days in May. So, here we are having another sunny day in May, and I want to share Fresh Cherry Soup with Cool Mint with you.

This recipe comes to me from Joël Robuchon as interpreted by Patricia Wells and reinterpreted by SippitySup. It may seem gallingly cheeky to reinterpret a master’s work. But Sup has his culinary limitations. So a few shortcuts were necessary. Besides gallingly cheeky is one of those unattractive qualities in my personality that I cannot seem to do anything about.

I am not saying my version is a masterpiece like the original. But I dare you not to like it!

Another thing. This recipe calls for the barest hint of cornstarch. Which is not a thickening agent I usually endorse. But that part comes from the master himself, so I followed his instruction there.

But I will warn you. Use only the tiniest amount. If you dare turn this into cherry pie filling you will be banned from SippitySup.

When used exactly right, cornstarch transforms the texture of this soup. It adds a just enough viscosity to render a “velvety elegant liquid”, to quote Patricia Wells.

She also recommends serving this soup in white porcelain bowls. I don’t why, but it does make it taste better!

I recommend that you do not bother to pit the cherries. I think the pit improves the flavor and texture of the poached fruit. But more importantly it adds to the sensuous quality of the experience. It forces you to eat slowly. Savoring each cherry one at a time. Gently rolling it around your mouth removing it's tender flesh, then spitting the pit back onto your spoon, setting it aside.

I also strongly recommend you choose a so-called “red mint”. Something with the cooling qualities of menthol. I am using peppermint. The more herbal taste of spearmint lacks the cooling sensation that makes this soup even more orally sensuous.

1 bottle fruity red wine with a nice tannic quality (like a Côtes-du-Rhône)

1/2-cup confectioners’ sugar

1 maybe a scant 2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water

2 pounds cherries, un-pitted and left whole

10 or 12 four-inch sprigs of peppermint stems and leaves, tied in a bundle

extra mint leaves as garnish (optional)

In a very large saucepan, bring the wine to gentle simmer over medium heat. Simmer until reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Try and accomplish this with out boiling the wine.

Add the sugar and the cornstarch slurry then whisk the mixture constantly for about 1 minute.

Raise the heat to medium high, and add the cherries. When the liquid is just beginning to think about boiling remove the pan from the heat.

Once you are confident all the sugar has dissolved taste the soup with a metal spoon. It should just coat the spoon and have a velvety texture. Do not let it get too thick. Because it will thicken a bit more as it cools.

When you are happy with the texture add the bundle of mint and cover the pan. Set it aside to infuse for about 30 minutes.

Remove the mint bundle and discard it. The soup should be close room temperature now. Slightly warm is fine, but you do not want it to be hot.

Ladle the soup into shallow soup bowls, dividing the cherries equally among each bowl. Garnish the soup with more mint if desired.

This soup does not hold well and should be eaten within 2 hours of making it.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup