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Le Cabrera: A spoonful of French and a shake of Argentinean make a whole lot of Spanish.


By The Foreign Kitchen (Visit website)



Benjamin Bensoussan of Le Cabrera behind the Gastrobar.

A Spaniard, a Brit, a German, and two Kiwis go out to dinner. As much as this sounds like a joke, it was just another Thursday night. Over tapas we discussed the ins and outs of Spanish cuisine. Simultaneously digging our forks into tender stewed meat bathed in a dark wine sauce, Spanish Maria looked at me, ?Do you ever have problems? I mean do Spaniards ever question your authority on reviewing our food, or claiming the Top 10 Tapas Bars in Madrid??, she asked brushing a drop of the deep sauce from her lip. I steadied my fork half way to my mouth. ?Really I have no authority,? I said, ?only my taste buds.? I plunged my bite into my mouth, putting said taste buds to good use.


A new take on the old: At Le Cabrera the Caesar Salad comes as a head with a bowl of finger liking dressing to dip it in.


What I mean, and what I was trying to explain to Maria between mouthfuls of tapas is this: Who?s to say that you can only judge a meal if it?s from your own cultural hearth? Of course I can?t go about comparing the croquetas I ate to the ones my mother used to make, but I can say that they were effing delicious. In my opinion culinary authority comes from a love of food, a willingness to try new dishes, and the experience of having eaten many. And that is what I can bring to the table. It may not be a Spanish madre or and Italian mama, but when it comes to eating my taste bud knows what?s in the sauce.

The Patatas Bravas wrap around a thin layer of spicy sauce and shine under a crown of smooth aoli.


To illustrate my point I take you to Le Cabrera, a mishmash of cultures not only in name.

Le Cabrera is backed by Spanish Michelin stared chef Sergi Arola who lends his guiding hand as well has his signature dishes to his new undertaking. Enter the two level restaurant and either take a seat at the first floor gastrobar where French chef Benjamin Bensoussan will tickle your fancy with innovative Spanish tapas or descend into the downstairs cocktail lounge and let Argentinean mixologist Diego Cabrera shake up your life.


Beef Tartar with crunchy ginger flakes topped for you on site with a egg yolk marinated in soy dressing.


So how does this relate to my conversation with Maria?

Anyone who might think that a foreigner has no clout in local gastronomy might also suppose that a French chef is out of place in a Spanish kitchen. That would be a sad mistake, not only would they be living under false assumptions but be missing out on the truly delicious Spanish cuisine at Le Cabrera.

Some say the best cheesecake in town? Creamy cheese mousse paired with crispy spice bread croutons and blueberry coulis. The kicker is snippets of lemon zest on top.


Thin slices of potato spread with a spicy brava sauce, rolled up and fried into crispy bliss, and topped by a cloud of garlicky aioli is by far the best version of patatas bravas I have ever eaten. Traditional? No. Can I compare them to my madre?s? Logistically speaking, hardly. But did they make my heart melt? Oh so very much.

Despite, and perhaps because, of the French fingers at work behind the gastrobar, Le Cabrera is one of my top spots for Spanish flavor.

Bensoussan and Cabrera cradling their tools of the trade.

Le Cabrera
Calle Bárbara de Braganza 2
+34 913 199 457
www.lecabrera.com


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