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Not So Little Fishes
"The salmon are swimming upriver in the cold gray damp of the dawn
To the gravel beds of the rapids to dig out their spawning beds to spawn November is their breeding season in the cold and wet Northern Fall When yesterday's flood is subsiding they are answering to Nature's call." From: "The Salmon Are Swimming Upriver", Francis Duggan. My favorite time of the year is Here! What, you didn't send out your cards yet? You haven't bought the kid's Sockeye costumes with the grotesquely over-exaggerated head parts? You haven't converted the front yard into a mock-up of Northwest spawning grounds? There aren't any dainty little dishes scattered around the house filled with roe and gravlax? Ok, maybe it's just me... Wild Salmon Season is here. I anxiously wait for it every year. I absolutely cannot wait to see those big slabs of ruby-red flesh at the market. Not that there's anything wrong with farmed salmon...exactly..... It just doesn't have the same depth of taste, the silkiness of texture, the richness of color. ...Alright, farm raised salmon is just pretty damn bland. But, I'll admit, seeing a 2-foot long piece of fish at the market can be a little scary for some people. 5 to 8 pounds of salmon is a lot of fish, and knowing what to do with it all can be a tad daunting. Never fear - Help is on the Way! I'll give you a couple of ways to break down the fish so that you can: 1. make it more manageable 2. make it more enjoyable (in case you're not the huge fishy fan) 3. make yourself seem like the quintessential expert on serving up Sockeye. First and foremost - Look for Fresh Caught Wild Salmon, or Wild Sockeye Salmon. Most better fish markets will carry it. I know that Kroger and Publix both will carry whole sides "Skin-On". Skin-on is always going to be better. Unlike a lot of fish, the skin on fresh salmon is very tasty and it crisps up really great when you grill or saute it. You want to make sure there is a deep reddish-orange color to the meat and that there is a decent fat layer between the skin and the flesh. Now - Check for bones. You will need a pair of good tweezers, or needle-nosed pliers for this. (Just make sure you wash and sterilize them really well.) Lay the salmon out on a sanitized counter - skin side down. With the pliers in one hand, run your fingers down the flesh, starting from the tail and working your way up to the head area. The bones will be noticeable. Catch the exposed edge of the bone with the needle nose or tweezers, and with your free hand, hold down the fillet as you pull it out. It should slide out fairly easily - with just a little resistance. Perfect... Any of the following can be done with a whole salmon - if you need a ton of portions. But, I think with a 6 to 9 pound fillet, you will probably want to work these down into 2 to 3 pound sections, just to make it more manageable. 1st - The Easy One This is "basically" the glaze a particular steakhouse in the area uses on their salmon. I really like the way the bourbon and soy compliment the gaminess of the salmon Serves 6 to 8 Ingredients 2 to 3 Pound Salmon Fillet (Skin On) 1/2 Cup Bourbon 1/2 Cup Butter 1/2 Cup Soy Sauce 1/2 Cup Brown Sugar - Packed 1/2 Cup Lemon Juice Cooking Spray Aluminum Foil Charcoal Grill - or - Gas Grill 1 Small Sauce Pan 1 Basting Brush Okay - now Moderately Easy Gravlax A Nordic dish consisting of raw salmon, cured in salt, sugar, and dill. Gravlax is usually served as an appetizer, sliced thinly and accompanied by a dill and mustard sauce, either on bread of some kind, or with boiled potatoes. Serves 12 to 14 Ingredients 2 to 3 Pounds of Salmon - De-boned, Skin-on 1/4 Cup Kosher Salt 1/4 Cup Sugar 2 Tablespoons White or Green Peppercorns - Crushed 1 Bunch Fresh Dill - Rough Chopped (Leaves and Stems) 1/8 Cup Vodka 1 8" x 8" Pyrex Dish 1 Roll Plastic Wrap A Couple of Salad Plates - for weight 1 Crusty French Baquette 1 Recipe Mustard Dill Spread - See Below Cut the fillet in half Lay a piece of plastic wrap in in the Pyrex dish to overlap over the sides of the dish and big enough to cover the fillets.Lay one fillet, skin side down, on the plastic wrap.Mix the salt, sugar and crushed peppercorns and spread half of this mixture over the exposed side of the filletCover the top of the salt mixture with the chopped dill Sprinkle 1/2 of the vodka over the dill. Spread the rest of the cure mix over the dill and sprinkle the remainder of the vodka on topLay the second fillet of salmon, skin side up,on top of the salted 1st layer.Pull the plastic wrap up to cover the fillets. Place the salad plates on top of the salmon to weigh it downPlace the dish in the refrigerator for 48-72 hours. (depending on how salty you want the gravlax)Once a day, take the dish out of the fridge and carefully flip the wrapped fish over.Place the plates back on top and return to the fridge At the end of the curing time, take the fillets from their wrapping, remove the dill and scrape off any excess salt mix. Slice thinly across the fillets and serve with Mustard-Dill Spread and Toasted BaguettesThe gravlax should keep at least a week covered tightly in the fridge. Mustard - Dill Spread Makes about 2 Cups Ingredients 1/4 Cup Prepared Coarse Ground Mustard 1/4 Cup Canola Oil 1/4 Cup Cream Cheese - or - Tofutti(c) Cream Cheese Substitute, if you're Lactose Intolerant) 1/2 Cup Dill, Finelt Chopped - use all of the herb 3 Tablespoons Sugar 3 Tablespoons Cider Vinegar Food Processor Place all the ingredients into the processor hopper and pulse until everything is combined and creamy.Now - the not-so-easy one... Salmon Coulibiac (pronounced: Koobie - yak) Salmon Coulibiac is basically a Russian fish pie - so there is a crust. Traditionally, it is made with more of a brioche dough, but I like the presentation value of puff pastry. I'll give you the brioche version. But if you want to use puff pastry instead, it will take a considerable amount of time off the preparation as you are using a readi-made, prepared dough. We're also taking a few liberties here and there, I've made a few time saving changes in techniques, hoping that you'll at least try to make it. Serves 8 Ingredients 1 1/2 Pounds Salmon Fillet 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice 1 Medium Onion - Chopped 1 Tablespoon Olive Oil 1 Cup Baby Portabella Mushrooms - Finely Chopped 1 Tablespoon Curly Parsley - Chopped 2 Cups Cooked Rice 4 Hard Boiled Eggs - Sliced 1 Tablespoon Butter - Melted 1 Recipe Brioche Dough - or - 1 Package Puff Pastry Dough 1 Egg - Beaten 1 Can Mushroom Soup 1/4 Cup Half n Half 1/4 Cup Dry White Wine 1 Medium Sauce Pan 1 Large Skillet 1 Baking Pan 3 assorted mixing bowls Brioche Dough Recipe Ingredients 1/2 Cup Warm Water 1 Tablespoon Yeast 1 Teaspoon Sugar 1/2 Cup Flour 3 Large Eggs 1 Cup Flour 1 Tablespoon Sugar 1 Teaspoon Salt 6 Ounces Butter - Softened 1 1/2 Cups Flour 1 Large Mixing Bowl 1 Stand Mixer When you are ready to begin the next day, keep the dough cool and roll out to a large rectangle - about 1/4" thick
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