Wanderlust / Taste Buds: Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Ms C and I, along with our family, appreciate all the love and care of our friends who have extended their sympathies and have comforted us in this difficult time. Our family is now rolling with the punches with the loss of our grandfather, which is why it has been difficult for me to blog. But, my grandfather would have carried on. And, as we all know, death is a part of life. And in each moment in life, there is something to celebrate about.

Cobblestones at Vigan’s Heritage Village

Photo by Ms B

My emergent trip to the Philippines brought me to my grandparents’ hometown in Santa, Ilocos Sur. And I have not been to this town, which is 20 minutes from the region’s capital Vigan City, since my grandparents’ golden wedding anniversary in 2004.  The trip, though somber, brought many memories of our childhood. Just taking that 10-hour or so ride, with seemingly endless farmlands, including a traditional stop at Max’s in Luisita in Tarlac, brought me some delight that I am with the company of my family.

On the road to Ilocos

Photo by Ms B

We used to travel to Ilocos every summer and Christmas. Our Tita Baby organized an annual Easter egg hunt, with each egg having a monetary value. In Christmas, we performed whatever we learned for our schools’ Christmas programs in front of our aunts, uncles, cousins, and most especially, our grandparents. It was truly a family house, complete with a grotto and an artesian well. We enjoyed many afternoons sitting around, I remember there was a swing too under our chico tree. We sang Christmas carols at the doorstep but it was actually when we gave out money to carolers young and old, mostly out of tune, that one would remember about these songs. Of course, when we grew older and everyone’s home base became either Manila or USA, these annual gatherings were no more. It’s sad, actually, how traditions just disappear that way. Anyway, another memory of Santa for me is the beach, or what we call baybay. Unfortunately, I did not even get a glimpse of the baybay during this trip. It’s always windy in Santa because of the mountain range nearby. With the water and the mountains, it was pretty scary to learn that a typhoon, Typhoon Juan, was passing by.

At our grandparents’ house

Photo by Ms B

In Santa, everyone knew who my grandfather was. It was a very small town. One church, I believe. Tita Baby and I walked to church. When I was younger, that walk seemed so long but it was not even a mile. On our way back, Tita Baby thought she saw some funny looking dogs. Of course, these were just goats a-grazing. I think I haven’t seen a goat in six years.

The town church and grazing goats

Photo by Ms B

This is a Wanderlust post and a Taste Buds post because one other thing about going home to Ilocos, and to the Philippines for that matter, is that this is the comfort food that I know. Chef asked me if I missed cooking while I was in the Philippines, especially that I have been cooking a lot here before I left. Quick answer: Nope! I explained that our trusty maid asked me what I wanted to eat everyday, and everyday she would go to the market, finding my request and cooking it for me. That was quite a lot better than cooking and having to clean the dishes myself. So, I enjoyed the Philippine taho (soy drink with tapioca balls), as well as Ilocos favorites Ilocos longganisa (sausages), bagnet (pork) and benneck (I don’t know how it’s spelled but it’s a type of clam). All of course devoured with rice. Now that I think on it, I did not get to try the famous bibingka.

Philippine food

Photo by Ms B

Though it was a sad reason that brought me to Ilocos this year, I will never forget the glorious memories I have of the place. It is a place where everyone knew my grandfather’s name. It is where my grandparents and mother grew up. It is a place of family. And family is home.